Estonia brought surprises

Text: Aivar Hanson
Photo: Margus Johanson

The next cycle of Bocuse d’Or, the top culinary competition of the world, has begun. Estonia has remained in the competition, which is no longer a surprise to anyone.

A replacement surprise, however, are the three men to the left of this photo: Claus Mayer, Fergus Henderson and Albert Adria. Such a trio of competitors can be afforded by top culinary events of the world.

Time will show whether the Food for Future conference, held simultaneously with the Estonian selection of the culinary competition, will develop into one of the top culinary events of the world. Today, we delight in the fact that our man Rain Pikand, standing side by side with celebrities, justified his position in the group with the quality of his performance in all aspects. And that Dimitri Demjanov who is holding the microphone had enough blind faith and plain obstinacy in order to initiate the big event.

This is how the jury works at every culinary competition. That Estonia would be represented by Dmitri Rooz this time was determined mostly by foreign top experts. They know their job. The choice was definitely both right and fair.

One thought has crossed the minds of everyone who follows culinary competitions, even of journalists who cover the competition - to be able to taste even a tiny piece of those delicious-looking dishes that have taken a very long time to prepare.

This time the organisers gave the opportunity to five persons. (At the main competition, the dish is served to a jury with 12 members; in Tallinn they were 7).

Drawing of lots determined that the fish dish by Dmitri Rooz was served first. The main ingredient obligatory for all competitors - halibut. Otherwise, the chef participating in the competition had free hands. Another condition: two dishes must be prepared on site from start to end, within five and a half hours.

The appearance of the dish is impressive. Its name is extremely long and components numerous. But the jury has to be convinced in one's skills. It is not easy to bake fish in 12 portions so that everything would be invariably perfect. My portion is indeed somewhat too little baked.

But otherwise, everything is superb! A particularly expressive detail is the bouquet of vegetables at the far end of the plate, complementing fish well with its splendidly fresh, savoury richness. The green ball is actually scallop glazed with dill. The orange ravioli is carrot and vanilla, filled with sea buckthorn and chilli syrup.

We don't know yet that this dish is not going to be beaten by any of the other competitors.

And this is veal ballotine by Dimitri Rooz, again with several sides. The 12 portions are yet on a tray, shortly to be placed on plates.

As far as I am concerned, the winner of the competition is virtually certain after I have tasted this dish. I cannot believe that anyone would be able to prepare something better. We will know later that the jury was of the same opinion, as also Dimitri’s meat dish was selected as the best.

Although my position would require it, I cannot complain about anything in this dish. The striking layout, superb aroma, very good degree of cooking and heavenly tastes. This is a culmination!

But as was revealed, surprises can also follow the culmination. Although Dmitri Rooz definitely deserved to win, it does not mean that probably the most respected chef in Estonia Tõnis Siigur no longer deserves his position.

This plate includes the greatest surprises for me throughout the competition. To the left is a coulant of cooked veal's head jelly and chocolate! As the name, the dish itself is stunning. The red ball to the right on the plate is a ratatouille of deep fried and smoked sweetbread!

Such elaborate and effort-consuming dishes can really be tasted nowhere but at top culinary competitions. Or maybe they could, but who would be able to afford them!

Rene Uusmees, probably the most energetic representative of the New Estonian Cuisine, was in his own element also at the competition. The Estonian cuisine is unknown in the wide world, and one occasion is not enough to bring it to renown and make a breakthrough with it. But Rene dared to do it, making an outstanding start!

Let the full name of his competition dish speak for itself:

Loin of veal roasted with rosemary and lemon, served with hazelnuts.
Confit of veal's head with bacon, raisins, Swedish turnip baked with dessert wine “Põltsamaa Kuldne” and puré of capers and raisins.
Cooked veal tongue with saffron-spiced granular carrot stew and horseradish mousse.
Parsnip and barley-groats cake with crisp onion and fricassee of sweetbread and cassis.